The Looking Glasgow

Graduation Day

nobody@vox.com(thelookingglasgow) — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 22:12:15 +0000

On December 2, I entered the world of the master.

A master of what, you may ask? A Master of Letters — all 26 of 'em!

Jokes aside, our graduation from the University of Glasgow was one of my proudest moments. I don't think that I stopped smiling all day. Many people remarked at how happy I looked and, my hand to God, I truly was.

See for yourself below or watch the ceremony in its entirety on the University of Glasgow website.

It was a bittersweet occasion that marked our final week in Glasgow and the end to the greatest year of my life.

Isn't my street cool?
It's especially cool at 8:30 a.m. when the temperature is below freezing!

Nick was the only one of us in trousers.
Here he is eating a breakfast yum-yum from Gregg's.

We were among the first of the graduands to get to the university that morning.

Which gave us the opportunity to pick up our gowns and take loads of schlocky photos.

Every shot had to be perfect for our mothers.

I think that my flatmate Chris and course mate Jose looked the best of all of us.

As more people began to show up, I ran into more of my course mates.
Tyler, the only other Southerner in the Creative Writing Programme, came back from Texas with his dad to attend graduation.

And we're back to the schlocky graduation photos.
This one is in front of the Kelvingrove Museum.

Here, we experiment with the Sears technique.

In this photo we try the "peace sign" pose but somebody forgot to give Jose the memo...
Awkward.

These guys do a really good job of conjure the spirit of the Hogwort.

Just before the graduation ceremony began, more than 200 graduands were herded into a room,
organized by department, and given a seat assignment.

This is what we eventually looked like.

Then, the balcony began to fill.
Alissa, who didn't "walk," took photos from this section of the historic Bute Hall.

Nick conveniently sat right behind me, although we studied on different courses.
This enabled him to snap a lot more photos.

Most of the graduands followed the program so diligently.
I think a lot of it was based on the narcissistic pride of seeing our names and titles in print.

I was so proud!
Here I am about to receive my masters, as my mother said, "grinnin' like a possum."

The Chancellor of the University tapped each graduand on the head with a velvet pillow to grant us our master.
Alissa called this getting "bonked."

Words cannot express how happy and present I was in this moment.
One of the best days of my life!

Graham, Nick, Emily, Jamie, and James lining up to get "bonked."

Nick, next in line to get his master's.

Natalie, Graham, and Nick just after receiving their degrees.

At the close of the ceremony.
Nick still snapping away!

Afterward all the graduands and their families congregated for photos and mimosas.
I love Europe!

Genevieve, my course mate, with our convenor, esteemed editor and poet, Michael Schmidt.

Here I am along with my lecturers Zoe Strachan, Elizabeth Reeder, and convenor Schmidt.

"Don't cross the streams!"
Still so happy.

Alissa, who unfortunately didn't participate in the ceremony, in Natalie's regalia.

The gang posing with our degrees.
I'm going to miss these folks.

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Thanksgiving Anniversary

nobody@vox.com(thelookingglasgow) — Sun, 29 Nov 2009 18:03:05 +0000

This year Nick and I had the dual privilege of celebrating our one year anniversary and our second Thanksgiving in Scotland, together with friends in Gourock. With just two weeks left in Glasgow, this marks our last expatriate holiday spent abroad. I spent the day cooking to keep from crying. That's a bit dramatic.

Happily, there were no literal tears on Thanksgiving but there were some metaphorical "tears in our beer," at the acknowledgment that this wondrous, crazy experience is all nearing an end. I say, all the more reason to live in the present and appreciate every moment as it comes.

The anniversary celebrations continued throughout the weekend, as Nick and I went to Celtic Park on Saturday for our first Scottish football match, followed by an all-Scots concert at the SECC featuring the highly influential Glasgow-based '90s pop group Teenage Fanclub.

Our Thanksgiving feast, en route to Gourock.
We had to schlep most of the ingredients from Glasgow, as everything in Gourock closes at about 6 p.m.

The next morning, Nick started on the turkey early.

As he slaved over the stuffing, I ate pouridge with berries and cream.

Later that evening, Alissa arrived with the amazing sweet potato casserole.
By this point, I'd already prepared the cornbread, apple cobbler, a green bean casserole, creamed spinach and baked beans. You can see the evidence of my hard work lining the counter, shrouded in aluminum foil.

While the worker bees were busy whipping up a suitable Thanksgiving meal,
the drinker bees were pre-gaming it with some Strongbow.

Here (L-R) Natalie, Chris C., Chris S., and Nick G. stand around the kitchen.

It was nightfall before we even started carving the turkey, which isn't saying much in Scotland because,
around this time of the year, the sun sets at 4 p.m.

The spread was amazing!
This photo doesn't do the food any justice at all.

After we'd all gorged ourselves, the antics began.
Here, I'm wrapping Alissa like a mummy.

Which eventually turned into the "Aztec Turkey."

At midnight it was our one year anniversary.

The next morning, on the way back to Glasgow, Nick stunted on the train.
I think he was trying to embarrass Alissa and myself.
Joke's on him, my life is one long embarrassment!

On Saturday, we bought tickets to the Celtic match against St. Mirren.
We took the subway to St. Enoch and walked the two miles past Glasgow Green (pictured above) to Celtic Park.

We were in a hurry because we were about thirty minutes late to the match,
but I wanted to snap a photo of all the equestrian cops around the stadium.

We finally made it to our section and realized that, in our lateness, we'd missed absolutely nothing.

In fact, in the first fifteen minutes of our arrival, the Celtics scored two points
and we were graced with an amazing sunset!

Another view of Glasgow and Celtic Park.

We were freezing in the nose bleeds.

Some Celtic propaganda.

After the match we walked back through Glasgow Green, past the People's Palace (pictured above),
en route to the SECC.

Before heading to the concert, we stopped at an Italian restaurant in the East End.

At the SECC waiting for Teenage Fanclub to take the stage, I found a curious machine.
This thing dispenses "Rollasoles," the disposable shoe.

More filly-farting.
This time, I found a Lady Gaga poster and posed beside it.

A view of the SECC hallway decorated for Christmas.

Finally, King Creosote took the stage.
He's Alissa's favorite.

At the end of the night, Teenage Fanclub.

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How-To: Moving to the United Kingdom, the Student Way.

nobody@vox.com(thelookingglasgow) — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 17:26:38 +0000

As my European adventure comes to a close, I've been met with many a random question about how I made my move abroad. When I was applying to grad schools overseas two years ago (I can't believe it's been two years!) and doing some research on how to do so, I found online resources surprisingly slim. That is why I've constructed a list of helpful advice to potential expatriates. After all, only 18% of Americans have active passports, according to a Central Intelligence Agency report. Expats are among the few and the proud!

University of Glasgow West Quadrangle. Photo courtesy of ZenCollegeLife.com

From the outside, making the move to the United Kingdom may seem a lot harder than it actually is. Logistically, it really is very simple — score a job or university placement, a visa, and some money. Psychologically and emotionally, it may be a bit more challenging. What it really boils down to, however, is one question: How bad do you want it?

Personally, I left long-term employment, a four-year relationship, my family, my friends, and my dogs (with my mom). I'd be lying if I said these hurdles were easy — they weren't — and I'm aware that some people are just not prepared to do such. However, the lessons it taught me were priceless: I can accomplish anything through hard work and sacrifice, the only bounds are those which we impose on ourselves. This excludes walking through walls, telepathy, and making myself invisible, of course.

My point is, if you put in the effort — that is, if you jump through all the necessary hoops, incur the debt, and make all the sacrifices — the dream will most likely happen. Honestly, even though I'm $35K in the hole after a year-and-a-half of studying abroad, I wouldn't trade my experiences (or my master's degree) for the world.

Now that all the Tony Robbins-esque musings are out of the way, let's get down to the practicalities. The following is a list of helpful tidbits I've collected since moving to the United Kingdom and thus entering the expatriate lifestyle.

"Uni."
Most master's degrees in the United Kingdom and Europe only take a year to complete. This little-known fact, along with a high standard of educational excellence, is what draws thousands of Americans to UK universities yearly.

Take time with your application. There will be some simple and fairly obvious scholastic equivalents to note. For example, elementary, junior, and high schools are called primary and secondary schools in the UK. Another helpful thing to note is that UK schools and university do not utilize the same GPA system as the United States does. Often times marking systems vary between schools, universities, and even within academic departments. The University of Glasgow operates on a marking scale from A to H, with degrees that vary from 22 to zero. Usually, the admissions office will make your transcript conversions for you, though some applications will ask for you to do it yourself.

After you've completed your application, the next big step is the cover letter. I truly believe that my cover letter, along with my portfolio are what got me into so many UK universities. I wasn't exactly a bad undergrad but I did have a few instances where I kind of effed up — a semester of snoozing through Chemistry or a summer of boozing through Biology. If you're like me, your cover letter can help clear up these blemishes and set you apart from the rest of the application masses. Get a trusted friend or coworker to proofread your final copy and thank them with a small gift when you get accepted.

Housing.
Once you're accepted to university, then you must next consider accommodation. If you're a prospective student, chances are, your university will promptly offer housing following your placement confirmation. Don't live in student housing if you can help it. Even though my anxious mother begged me to "play it safe" and even though it really did seem like a good idea at the time, in the end it was a mistake. Sure, I met my future flatmate Alissa through dorm life and, through Alissa, my wonderful boyfriend Nick, but all and all the experience was expensive, intrusive, and I felt like I had regressed a decade.

Trust me, you'll save a lot money by merely staying in a hostel for the week after you arrive (you only need a couple of days, really), going on Gumtree (look under the "Flats to Share" section), and shooting off some e-mails. Nick did this and found a flat within a day. Anything is possible as long as you put forth the effort.

Afraid of psychos and maniacs? I understand the inborn American paranoia that tells us that meeting roommates online is just asking to get hacked to bits but it's safe, I promise. Really, almost everyone does it like that in the UK. Just make sure you live with other students, as cities charge an exorbitant Council Tax for non-students.

Visas.
They're expensive and you can't apply for them until three months before you actually move. They're a real pain in the rear — time-consuming, confusing, and mountains of paperwork. In order to get a UK Visa, you must provide proof of an offer from a UK university, proof of accommodation or the funds to get an accommodation, and proof of funding.

Funding.
This one is a doozy. I went through Sallie Mae for my Stafford and Grad PLUS loans. I wouldn't recommend getting the Grad PLUS because the interest is very high. It does however give you some added cushion and reduce the stress of finding a job immediately after you arrive. It also increases your level of debt-related stress upon arriving back home.

Stuff.
Conveniently, most accommodations in the UK are furnished, unlike many places in the States. That means all you really need is a bag of clothes and some toiletries. Or not. After all it is Europe.

Jokes aside, sell or give away unnecessary junk before leaving the States. You'd be surprised how much you don't actually need. Honestly, I put a lot of my irreplaceable stuff in a climate-controlled storage unit in Texas but, in retrospect, I could've tossed a lot of it.

A printer, desk lamp, blankets, pillows, and towels? Don't bring 'em. You can buy everything you need once you're overseas.

Clothing
The most important item you could bring with you abroad, aside from the obviously legal and monetary necessities, is clothing. Especially in the UK, where meteorologists are always wrong and the weather varies by the minute, proper clothing is key.

You need four quality things: a rain jacket, an umbrella, and a good pair of rain boots. Do not skimp on these items, trust me, you'll thank yourself later. Here are some of my personal suggestions:

Marmot Precip - This jacket has been my best friend. I got mine for $60 on eBay new, but they typicallly go for $99.
ShedRain WindPro stick umbrella - This durable umbrella goes for $40 and can withstand up to 30 mph winds without inverting.
Sperry Top-sider Wellies - I love these boots. They've gotten me through the wettest, deepest, and muckiest Scottish puddles.

Jobs.
Jobs are great ways to learn about the culture, language, and idiosynchrasies of a city. If you're a student, your visa will most likely stipulate that you cannot work more than 20 hours a week during academic sessions and, believe me, you wouldn't want to work any more. Most places of employment will not offer a standard application form and will, instead, ask for a "CV," or Curriculum Vitae, in place of a resume. A CV is a bit more comprehensive than a resume, with a special focus on education.

Once you've acquired a job, your employer will require that you supply a National Insurance Number (NIN). The NIN is comparable to a Social Security Number and supports the National Health Service (NHS) scheme, which provides "free" or low-cost health care to every resident and visitor of the UK. A NIN isn't difficult to acquire but you will have to undergo a phone interview.

A phone.
A "mobile," as it is called in the UK. Avoid pay-as-you-go. Some people may tell you that it is a good option, and it technically would be if you were only staying for a three-month spell, but in all likelihood you're not. Get on a one year plan. It'll save you loads of time and money. Some popular UK service providers are: Orange, Vodafone, and Talk Mobile.

Money.
The dollar is weak. We know this. That means you basically have to save double stateside before your move. When you first arrive you'll only think in Dollars, which can transform even the most generous person into cheapskate. "I'm not paying £2 for a carton of milk – that's almost $5!"

Once you get in the pound frame of mind and stop using your greenbacks, you'll see that everything is relative. Getting a job helps with this.

Travel.
Do as much as you can. You'd be surprised how prison-like UK towns can become when you don't have a car. (insert inter-UK travel) That's why it's important to get out every once in a while, catch a Ryanair (Europe's discount airline) flight, and go somewhere cool. Only thing about Ryanair is that the deals seem really good, save the fact that they always fly into commuter airports outside major cities and you always end up spending about what you would've spent if you flew EasyJet. Doh.

Supermarket
Believe it or not,

Taxis
Avoid Black Cab and, rather, call a private hire.

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John Vanderslice in Edinburgh

nobody@vox.com(thelookingglasgow) — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 23:00:01 +0000

"Love of my life," "Husband," "Sonic soul mate" — over the years, I've called John Vanderslice a lot of things. That's why, when I saw that he was scheduled to play Sneaky Pete's in Edinburgh on Nov 5, I instantly booked a ticket.

The past three times I've seen him, he's performed in crowded venues in New York and Austin. To my surprise, only about twenty people were in attendance Thursday night, allowing for a really special and intimate performance from Vanderslice.

Here's a link to a rendition of "Keep the Dream Alive" that I took at the end of his set: KTDA.

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Bonfire Night in Gourock

nobody@vox.com(thelookingglasgow) — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 20:56:50 +0000

Bonfire Night, or Guy Fawkes Night, is essentially Great Britain's response to Halloween. That said, the two traditions couldn't be more different. On Halloween, children and adults don costumes, attend parties, and destroy the enamel on their teeth. On Guy Fawkes Night, which takes place five days after Halloween, children construct an effigy of Guy Fawkes, the Catholic conspirator involved in a 17th century plot to burn the House of Parliament, beg for money on the street, and later burn "the Guy" in a bonfire. A lot more morbid than our pagan holiday, I think.

Technically, Guy Fawkes Night was last Thursday but the celebrations spilled over into the weekend, including a fireworks display in the town of Gourock. Our friend Natalie has a home there and was nice enough to invite us out to the festivities on Saturday night.

Thanks to Alissa and Chris for the photos.

We got the "party" started right with a 90's dance megamix before heading out for the fireworks.

The display was actually in the neighboring town of Greenock, in Battery Park.

Here I am with Natalie and Chris, singing the Scottish version of "Con Te Partiro."
Alissa said that it included a line about Inverclyde.

Back at the house, Nick requests Jethro Tull and brings the "party" down a bit with "Aqualung."

I just stuff my face with shoestring crisps.

Natalie found a pair of bread slippers online and decided to try and eat them.

The next day, we had to head to the train station early in order to make it back to Glasgow by noon.

We were showing my room to potential occupants, in anticipation for my move back to the States in a month.

On the train, Nick and I were up to our normal shenanigans.

I'm not sure which of the two of us is "hammier"

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HALLOWEEN!

nobody@vox.com(thelookingglasgow) — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 19:28:58 +0000

The week before Halloween was a mad dash to finish our costumes, buy decorations for the party, decide on spooky-themed treats, and actually pull the whole thing off. Well, we did it and we've got pictures to prove that people actually showed up. In fact, quite a few people showed up and the last one didn't leave until 5 o'clock in the morning.

Thanks to Alissa and Chris Fyvie for the photo documentation.

I was the national drink of Scotland: IRN BRU.

This is Chris Fyvie.
He's... "the 70's"

My flatmate Chris was the Mad Hatter.

John, Robin, and Robin's boyfriend Brad hover near the snack table.

Nick dressed as Scotland's favorite treat: A Cadbury Freddo.
People ADORED this costume.

Our friend Nick Green didn't have a costume so we gave him the sandwich board cards in our closet.

Alissa was a dinosaur and even sewed the tail and spikes on herself!

Nick was so dedicated to his costume, even though it inhibited many of his senses.

Someone was playing my song.

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HALLOWEEN Party Tonight!

nobody@vox.com(thelookingglasgow) — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:56:47 +0000

After slaving over my costume for the past week-and-a-half, tonight I will see my vision realized!

Stay tuned for photos from what is sure to be the best Halloween ever! Yes, even better than last year's Halloween under the same prelude...

werewolf bar mitzvah

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Belle & SebastSHAN

nobody@vox.com(thelookingglasgow) — Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:48:44 +0100

A couple Saturdays ago, while on the lawn bowling courts at Kelvingrove Park, I had the odd and utterly awesome privilege of playing beside Belle & Sebastian front man Stuart Murdoch and his wife. Although I recognized him, I was unable to place his face, even after one of their balls rolled into our court, it was not until I went home and Googled who I thought he was that I indeed discovered it was Stuart Murdoch.

Two weeks later, that's yesterday, I was working the regular Saturday night shift at my job and guess who sits down at a table in the back? None other than Stuart Murdoch and his wife. We ended up chatting about Glasgow for a while, my master's degree, and the state of the journalism industry! He even suggested that I write a novel to curb the economical impact of the recession!

Star-worship aside, the music nerd in me thinks that this is probably one of the coolest Glasgow experiences that I've have. After all, we are talking about the genius behind Dog On Wheels, Tigermilk, If You're Feeling Sinister, and The Boy With the Arab Strap!

Stuart Murdoch, lead singer of Belle and Sebastian

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The Great Scottish Road Trip, Day Four

nobody@vox.com(thelookingglasgow) — Sun, 27 Sep 2009 13:21:47 +0100

On our last day, we hiked in the Cuillin Mountains outside Glen Brittle.
Fortunately, the first part of the hike gave decent weather.

The second half, not pictured, gave lots of fog, gusty winds, and rain.
We even lost the trail and had to come down a bit early.
Here's the last photo of the trip, a waterfall on our long journey home.

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The Great Scottish Road Trip, Day Three (Nick's Birthday!)

nobody@vox.com(thelookingglasgow) — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 19:25:28 +0100

We spent our first night in Skye camping in Portree, at the start of the Trotternish Ridge.
When we woke up, it was Nick's birthday!

We spent most of the day hiking into the rugged landslips of the Trotternish Ridge.

This is one of the more famous of the area, the rock formations that make up the Old Man of Storr.
It is thought that the protruding pinnacle of the rock resembles the nose of an old man.

Another view of the landslips and vandalized sign advising hikers that
"[we] are advised (not) to go beyond this point"

After climbing along some of the steeper cliffs, amidst 40-to-50 mph wind gusts,
I decided that the mountaineering life is not for someone prone to vertigo.
Here I am defeated and humbled.

Hiking down we found a little pond carved into the side of the mountain.

We drove up the coast and found Kilt Rock (not pictured) and this epic waterfall.

Skye is littered with this out-of-sort British telephone booths.

Here I am trying to do a David Lee Roth in front of one.

Phone booths and sheep.
Two things you can find everywhere on Skye.

Ruins, too.
Okay, phone booths, sheep and ruins.

When we made it back to Portree for dinner, a flock of seagulls massed to our parked car.
This one landed right outside the window.

Portree or Maine?

For our second night in Skye we camped beside the Sligachan Hotel (not pictured).
It was one of the windiest and rainiest camping experiences of my life.

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